Die Geschichte des Minirock – Eine Geschichte der Rebellion

Kleidungsstücke haben selten die soziale Sprengkraft, das komplette Frauenbild zu wandeln. Eine Ausnahme bildet dabei der Minirock, der seit dem Ende der 50s seinen Feldzug von Großbritannien nach Europa und Amerika fortsetzte. In diesem Artikel wollen wir nachzeichnen, wie es dazu kam, das der kleine schwarze Rock überhaupt so erfolgreich werden konnte und wieso er es schaffte, Frauen ein völlig neues Körpergefühl und Selbstbewusstsein zu vermitteln.

Alles begann mit der Modedesignerin Mary Quant. Die junge Frau, deren Lehrer aus Wales kamen und Marys Leidenschaft für die schönen Künste weckten, begann sich bereits als Schülerin für Kunst zu interessieren. Als Studentin vertiefte sie dieses Bemühen, arbeitete in ihrer Freizeit aber bereits an Schnittmustern und entwarf erste Kleidungsstücke. Ihr eigentlicher Durchbruch aber war die Zeit, in der sie ihren eigenen Laden in Chelsea eröffnete. Schnell wurde ihre Boutique über die Stadtgrenzen Londons hinaus bekannt, so dass internationale und nationale Modehäuser auf sie aufmerksam wurden. Die folgenden Kollektionen waren allesamt Bestseller und erreichten mit der Erfindung des Minirocks ihren Höhepunkt. Der Rock, den sie anfänglich „experimentell“ kürzte und umnähte, passte genau in die Zeit der 60s und 70s. Es war die Zeit der revolutionären Jugendbewegungen, die Zeit des Studentenprotests und Zeit der sexuellen Revolution – und dies in England. England hatte den Ruf, muffig und verstaubt zu sein. Das Klima in der Gesellschaft der alten Kolonialmacht war antiquiert und die sozialen Konventionen so abgesteckt, das die Mode immer noch sehr konservativ war und nichts von dem hatte, was wir heute als rebellischen englischen Chic kennen, der durch Designer wie Vivienne Westwood und Alexander McQueen bekannt wurde. Der Minirock war ein Schlag ins Gesicht der englischen Gesellschaft und brachte Mütter und Väter um ihren Schlaf.

Denn mit dem Minirock zeigte die Tochter des Hauses nicht nur zu viel Haut, der „Mini“ war ein Angriff auf die Werte der britischen Gesellschaft. Dieser Rock war ein Zeichen des Aufbegehrens und ein Symbol der Zugehörigkeit zur alternativen, jungen Generation, die mit den Idealen der Eltern brechen wollte. In den Medien wurde der Minirock zum Hassobjekt Nummer 1. Er wurde als „unzüchtig“ bezeichnet und den wurde Trägerinnen unterstellt, wie „leichte Mädchen“ auszusehen. Dies änderte sich erst dann, als immer mehr Modezeitschriften begannen, den Minirock zu zeigen. Auch bekannte Modehäuser widmeten sich dem Minirock. Dior und Yves Saint Laurent verarbeiteten Modelle des Minirock für ihre Kollektion und eine breitere Masse nahm sich dem Kleidungsstück positiv an. Letztendlich konnte sich die negative Presse und die kritische Öffentlichkeit ( zu der sogar der Vatikan gehörte) nicht länger gegen den modischen Trend stellen. Mitte der Sechziger hatte der „Mini“ England soweit „überrollt“, dass sich das englische Königshaus sogar gezwungen sah, Mary Quant mit dem „Order of the British Empire“ auszuzeichnen.

Auch im prüden Amerika wurde der Rock ein echter Hit. Aber gerade in den Staaten der USA, die konservativ regiert wurden und sehr christlich geprägt wurden, stieß der Rock auf hefitigen Widerstand. Schließlich konnte er sich aber auch in den USA durchsetzen und fand reißenden Absatz. Heute ist der Minirock überhaupt nicht mehr aus der Modewelt wegzudenken und kaum einer stört sich daran, etwa mehr Haut vom Bein zu sehen. Der Minirock ist ein großartiges Beispiel dafür, dass Mode nicht nur „schön“ ist oder „kleidet“. Mode ist meist auch ein Statement, welches sich mal offener, mal versteckter zeigt und die komplette Gesellschaft umkrempeln und zum Erstarren bringen kann. Vielleicht muss dies genau der Anspruch sein, den junge Designer an sich selbst richten sollten. Mary Quant und der Minirock sind jedenfalls ein famoses Beispiel dafür.

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